MASHED POTATOES WITH PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO AND LEMON (for four)

2 pounds russet potatoes, scrubbed (russet, or baking potatoes, make fluffier mashed potatoes. Yukon golds have a buttery texture and are also a good choice)

8 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

1 cup half-and-half, warmed

1 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano

grated zest of 1 lemon

1-1/2 teaspoons salt

freshly ground black pepper to taste

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1. Peel potatoes, cut them into 2 inch pieces and place them in a large saucepan with cold, salted water to cover by about an inch (1 tablespoon salt for every 4 quarts of water). Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer until the potatoes are just tender when pricked with a thin-bladed knife, about 20 minutes. Drain potatoes in a colander.

2. If you want chunky mashed potatoes, drop the peeled potato chunks back into the empty, but still warm, saucepan and mash with a potato masher until fairly smooth. If you prefer a silky, smooth texture, set a food mill or ricer over the saucepan and drop the peeled chunks into the ricer in batches. Process or rice potatoes into the saucepan.

3. Stir in the butter with a wooden spoon until incorporated. Gently stir in the half-and-half, Parmigiano Reggiano, grated lemon zest, salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately.

SERVE WITH: Roasted lemon chicken