MASHED SWEET POTATOES WITH WITH CHIPOTLE CHILES (for four)

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces

2 tablespoons heavy cream

1 teaspoon sugar

2 tablespoons canned chipotle peppers in adobo, minced

2 pounds sweet potatoes (about 2 large or 3 medium-small potatoes), peeled, quartered lengthwise, and cut crosswise into ¼-inch-thick slices

pinch ground black pepper

1 to 2 tablespoons fresh chives, minced

1. Combine butter, cream, salt to taste, sugar, chipotles and sweet potatoes in a 3 to 4-quart saucepan. Cook, covered, over low heat, stirring occasionally, until potatoes fall apart when poked with a fork, 35 to 45 minutes.  (You can double the recipe and prepare it in a Dutch oven, but remember that you will need to double the cooking time as well).

2. Off heat, mash sweet potatoes in saucepan with a potato masher for a chunky consistency, or transfer mixture to a food mill or ricer and process it into a warmed serving bowl for a silky, smooth consistency. Stir in pepper garnish with chives and serve.  (Potatoes may be made 1 day ahead and chilled, covered.  Reheat, covered, in a 350* oven about 30 minutes.)