PAN-GRILLED SWORDFISH STEAKS SALMORIGLIO (Sicilian, with lemon, olive oil and oregano, for four)

For the salmoriglio:

1-1/2 teaspoons coarse salt plus additional for seasoning

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh oregano

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh thyme

3 teaspoons freshly grated lemon zest

8 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 

freshly ground black pepper

2 pounds fresh swordfish steaks, sliced 1 inch thick

1. Make the salmoriglio. Put the salt into a small bowl, add the lemon juice, and beat with a fork until the salt has dissolved.  Add the oregano, thyme and lemon zest, mixing with a fork.  Trickle in the olive oil, drop by drop, beating with the fork until emulsified.  Add several grindings of pepper, stirring to distribute it evenly.

2. Grill in a hot grill pan the usual 10 minutes per inch of thickness, turning mid-way through the cooking. (Alternatively, the steaks can be grilled out of doors, or broiled, for the same period of time, turning halfway through the cooking.)

3. Transfer the fish to a large, warm serving platter.  Prick each steak with a fork in several places to let the sauce penetrate deeper.  Use a spoon to beat and, at the same time, to pour the salmoriglio mixture of oil and lemon juice over the fish, spreading it evenly all over.  Serve at once, spooning some sauce from the platter over each individual portion.  (Note that freshness is essential to the fragrance of salmoriglio sauce.  Do not prepare it long in advance.  It is so simple and quick to do that you can make it while the grill is warming up.)

adapted from Marcella Hazan, Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking