SAUTEED VEAL CHOPS WITH TARRAGON AND WINE (for four)

2 to 3 tablespoons clarified butter or 2 tablespoons butter and 1 tablespoon light olive oil or peanut oil

4 veal loin or rib chops 1 inch thick

salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon or so dried tarragon, or sprigs of fresh tarragon

2/3 cup dry French vermouth

2 to 3 tablespoons butter, for the sauce (optional)

1.Film a heavy frying pan just large enough to hold the chops without crowding with clarified butter or butter and oil and set over moderately high heat. When hot, arrange the chops in the pan, turn heat to moderate and brown the chops slowly and lightly for 5 minutes on one side. Turn them, season lightly with salt and pepper, and brown lightly on the other side.

2. Pour out the saute fat, turn and season the chops again, and sprinkle (or lay) on the tarragon. Pour in the vermouth, cover the pan and simmer 1 or 2 minutes more on each side. The chops are done to medium when the flesh is faintly pink when you cut close to the bone.

3. Remove the chops to hot plates or a hot platter. Rapidly boil down the juices to a syrup, off heat swish in the optional butter a tablespoon at a time, pour it over the chops and serve.

NOTE: For veal chops 1-1/2 inches thick or more, choose a frying pan that can go into the oven. Brown them first on top of the stove as described. Season them, add the tarragon and set the not pan in the upper third of a 375* oven. Roast 5 to 6 minutes. Then (watch that hot pan handle!) turn the chops, baste with the accumulated juices, season them and roast another 5 to 6 minutes, or until done. Remove the chops to a hot plate or platter, add the vermouth and boil down the juices to a syrup. Swish in the optional butter, spoon over the chops and serve.

from Julia Child, The Way to Cook