ROASTED POTATO SPEARS WITH BROWN BUTTER AND SAGE (for four)
2 pounds large boiling potatoes (about 4)
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon sugar
4 tablespoons olive oil
1-1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
8 to 10 sage leaves
1. Put oven rack in lower third of oven, place a rimmed baking sheet (15 by 10 by 1 inch) on the rack and preheat the oven to 450*.
2. Peel potatoes, then cut each lengthwise into 8 wedges and toss with salt, sugar, and 3 tablespoons oil in a large bowl.
3. When oven reaches 450*, remove baking sheet and brush it with 1 tablespoon oil. Arrange potatoes on baking sheet, flat sides down, cover the pan tightly with foil and roast 10 minutes. Remove foil, loosen potatoes with a thin metal spatula if they are sticking, and roast 10 minutes more. Loosen potatoes again, then turn over onto other flat sides and roast another 10 minutes.
4. While potatoes roast, melt 1-1/2 tablespoons butter in a skillet over moderately low heat. Once butter starts to bubble, add 8 to 10 sage leaves. Fry, turning the sage occasionally, until sage leaves are crisp and butter is a rich caramel color. Loosen potatoes with a spatula and toss with sage butter.