RYE TOASTS WITH SMOKED TROUT AND SCRAMBLED EGGS (for four)

12 ounces smoked trout or salmon fillet, cut into ¼ inch dice

½ cup crème fraiche

juice of ¼ lemon

1 tablespoon capers

1 tablespoon finely diced red onion

2 sprigs parsley, leaves picked, finely chopped

kosher salt

4 thin slices bread, either a sour Nordic-style rye or a soft white like brioche or challah

2 tablespoons butter, melted

4 eggs, lightly beaten

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon heavy cream

8 chives, minced

2 tablespoons trout roe or red or black caviar (optional)

____________

1.   Cut the fish into ¼ inch dice.  In a bowl, combine the trout, crème fraiche, lemon juice, capers, red onion and parsley.  Season with salt and lemon juice to taste.  Refrigerate until ready to serve, up to 4 hours.

2.   Heat oven to 180*.  Cut the crusts off the bread for an elegant presentation, or leave it uncut for a less formal occasion. Brush both sides of the bread with melted butter.  Heat a heavy skillet over medium heat.  Working in 2 batches, brown bread on both sides, about 1 minute per side.  Remove and keep warm in oven.

3.   In a bowl, whisk eggs, remaining melted butter, cream and ½ teaspoon salt.  Heat a nonstick skillet over low heat.  Add eggs and cook, stirring constantly with a spatula, until just set and no longer runny.  Remove from heat, add chives and transfer skillet to oven to keep warm.

4.   Place a slice of toast on each plate.  Divide trout mixture among toasts, spreading it to make an even platform for the scrambled eggs.  Spoon the eggs in the center and top with a small spoonful of roe.  Serve immediately.

from Paul Berglund, adapted by Julia Moskin for the New York Times