CELERY ROOT REMOULADE (for six)

2 to 3 tablespoons or more Dijon-style prepared mustard

2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil or salad oil (optional)

4 to 6 tablespoons or more sour cream

1 to 2 tablespoons grated horseradish

droplets of milk or thin cream if necessary

salt and white pepper

one fine, firm celery root about 3 inches in diameter  (Pick celery roots that are firm and hard all over;  big ones are  just as tasty as small ones as  long as they look and feel whole and healthy.  Wrap each celery root in a dry paper towel and store it in a perforated plastic bag in the refrigerator, where they will keep nicely for a week or more)

finely chopped chives for garnish

1. Make the dressing: Place 2 tablespoons of mustard in a mixing bowl, then beat in the optional oil, sour cream and horseradish; the mixture should be quite thick and creamy.  If stiff, thin out with droplets of milk or cream.  Season well and salt and pepper; sauce should be quite strongly flavored with mustard, since it is the mustard that seems to penetrate and tenderizes the celery root.

2. Make the slaw: Because the celery root can discolor, shred it the moment before saucing it.  Peel the celery root, using a short, stout, sharp knife and cutting just down to the white flesh all around.  When you come to the creased portions at the root, slit down into the celery to remove them.  At once cut the root into matchsticks about 3 inches long, and toss in the prepared sauce.  Garnish with chives.   (If you are doing several celery roots, shred and sauce each as you go along to prevent discoloration.)

3. Sauced celery root will keep for 2 to 3 days refrigerated in a covered container.

adapted from Julia Child and More Company