one 5 to 6 pound veal roast, tied

salt and freshly ground black pepper

all-purpose flour

4 tablespoons olive oil

1-1/2 cups coarsely chopped yellow onion

2 carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped

1 large rib celery, coarsely chopped

2 cups white wine

2 cups veal or beef stock

2 cloves garlic, peeled

2 large sprigs fresh thyme

2 strips lemon peel

½ cup finely chopped onion

½ cup finely chopped carrot

½ cup finely chopped celery

2 ounces dried porcini mushrooms, soaked for 10 minutes in 1-1/2 cups boiling water

1-1/2 teaspoons grated lemon zest

2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley


1.  Preheat the oven to 300*.

2.  Season the veal with salt and pepper and dust it with flour.  In a large, heavy pot or Dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid, heat 3 tablespoons oil over high heat.  Add the veal and brown on all sides.  Remove the veal and add the coarsely chopped onion, carrots and celery.  Lower heat to medium and cook, stirring, until the vegetables are lightly browned, about 10 minutes.  Return the veal to the pot and add the wine, stock, garlic, thyme and lemon peel and bring just to a boil.  Cover the pot and place it in the oven.  Cook until the meat is very tender, about 2-1/2 to 3 hours.

3.  Remove the meat and set aside.  Pour the cooking liquid through a fine-meshed strainer.  Discard the solids and reserve the cooking liquid.  Add the last tablespoon of oil to the pot and place it over medium high heat.  Saute the finely chopped onion, carrots and celery until just tender.  Skim any excess fat from the reserved cooking liquid and add it to the pot.  Drain the mushrooms, chop them coarsely and add them, along with the soaking liquid, to the pot.  Lower heat and let simmer, partly covered, for 1 hour.

4.  When ready to serve, return the meat to the pot with the sauce and place it over medium heat.  Combine the zest and parsley and sprinkle it over the meat. Cook, covered, until the meat is thoroughly warmed.  Transfer to a platter and serve.

from The New York Times Magazine, March 1, 1998

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